Khorog
We had a crack-of-dawn hike through the Bartang Valley and after around three hours we were back on the road. We were heading to Khorog, the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous (Oblast) Province. The small city forms a slither along the Gunt River and sits at almost 2200 metres above sea level. It is nestled between the immediate mountains which rise up steeply from either side of the river.
With a population of around 30000, this was the first place of any size on the Pamir Highway. Wandering around Khorog, along its river, and through the City Park, it felt bright and peaceful.
Approximately, ninety percent of the population of Tajikistan are Muslims with the vast majority being Sunni. However, the people of The Pamirs form a small Ismaili (a branch of Shi’a Islam) community. The Ismailis follow a hereditary religious and spiritual leader (Imam) who can trace their lineage to Muhammed. In Europe, the Ismailis are perhaps best known for their Imam, the 49th Aga Khan. The Aga Khan Development Network has played an important role in improving the quality of life for the people of The Pamirs and, after a long period of isolation under Soviet rule, helping to reunite them with other Ismaili communities.