The Islands of Bocas del Toro
The islands of Bocas del Toro are in the Caribbean Sea close to the border between Panama and Costa Rica. They include the two stunning Zapatilla islands with their pristine beaches and crystal clear water set against a tropical landscape backdrop. Fortunately, the area is still relatively undeveloped and free of crowds.
I had heard of a travellers’ oasis in the area, Bambuda Lodge. It is on the water’s edge of the small island of Solarte with its own pontoon (and slide!) for sea access. Good beaches are a short boat ride away. The popular outdoor bar-restaurant, with swimming pool, has a communal feel and is a great meeting place. Some “resorts” of this nature employ mostly foreigners. The lodge employs locals, as indeed it should do.
The wooden bungalows and guesthouse accommodation are set back in tropical vegetation. For those on a tight budget, there are shared rooms (dorms). Otherwise, there are comfortable open-air ensuite rooms with fly screens to keep creatures, great and small, out. Fortunately, the private rooms are far enough away from the party to get a decent night’s sleep.
It is easy to explore the jungle and mangroves, and a short walk leads to the tiny beach at Hospital Point. Keep your eyes peeled and you should spot the very cute strawberry poisoned-dart frogs. It is best not to touch them, as much for your safety as well as theirs. I saw no snakes; they probably saw me first!
Zapatilla Islands
Unless you have your own boat or kayak, the easiest way to reach the uninhabited Zapatilla islands is through a day trip. I went with a friendly couple from Barcelona who were staying at the lodge. That day, the snorkelling en route was fairly good with about five metres visibility and a good array of tropical fish.
Following a very picturesque boat ride, we beached at the second Zapatilla island. The current was very strong, and it would have been nigh on impossible to swim against it. With such idyllic surroundings, I was happy to just paddle and splash. Another delight are the three outcrop islands close to the beach. The top of the palm trees on one of them was full of large birds, including the magnificent swallow-tailed kite.
With the beautiful surroundings, creature comforts, and good company, I could have easily stayed for much longer. However, the journey must continue.
