The Old Walled City of Khiva

It took about an hour to fly from Tashkent to Urgench and another hour in a taxi to get to Khiva. The Ichen Qala is the name given to the old walled city of Khiva. It is real treat to wander around somewhere so beautifully reconstructed and well maintained.

The outer walls are imposing and show revealed flat bricks and sections strengthened with straw and mud. Coupled with its impressive entrances, the Itchen Qala gives you the sense of being transported back in time.

Khiva - looking outside toward the West Gate entrance of the Itchen Qala — The West Gate entrance to The Itchen Qala

The Kuhna Ark is a citadel within the Itchen Qala which would once have been the main domain of the Khan of Khiva. There is beautiful and detailed tile work within the Kuhna Ark, especially in the Summer Mosque.

Khiva - The Kuhna Ark - once the ruling khan's own citadel within the old walled city — The Kuhna Ark – once the ruling khan’s own citadel within the old walled city

Khiva - the Summer Mosque within the Kuhna Ark citadel — The Summer Mosque within the Kuhna Ark

Khiva - stunning tile work in the Kunha Ark — Fine detail in the Kuhna Ark

A full day exploring the Ichen-Qala and I got to see the majority of the sites. I was glad to have a few days there to take it all in and explore a little.

Khiva - Wandering down the quiet streets toward the Itchen Qala's East Gate — Wandering down the quiet streets toward the Itchen Qala’s East Gate

The most recognisable point of the old city is the Kalta Minor Minaret which is highly visible from within the Itchen Qala. The minaret was never completed but that certainly doesn’t take anything away from its magnificence.

Khiva - the light of a new day brightening up the Kalta Minor Minaret — The light of a new day brightening up the Kalta Minor Minaret

Khiva - Looking through the Itchen Qala from the Kalta Minor Minaret at sunset — Looking through the Itchen Qala from the Kalta Minor Minaret at sunset

There were only a couple of us inside the Friday Mosque. The low light, the multitude of ornately carved wooden columns, and the detailed Bukhara rugs all make it very ethereal.

Khiva - The Joma Mosque — The low lit Joma (Friday) Mosque with its Bukhara rugs and finely carved columns

Khiva - rugs for sale — Buy your own Turkestan rugs!

As sunset falls and the day-trippers leave, the Itchen Qala becomes quiet and empty. The souvenir stalls have packed up, and it is a very peaceful and rewarding time to stroll around the city.

Khiva - Sunset inside the Itchen Qala — Sunset inside the Itchen Qala

Khiva - the main thoroughfare at night — Khiva – the main thoroughfare at night

For a fee, its possible to clamber up the narrow staircase to the top of The Islom Hoja Minaret. The bird’s-eye view gives a good perspective of the Ichen Qala. At street level, the plethora of hotels, restaurants and shops gives the impression that it has become a tourist museum. So, it was good to see that there are sizeable areas where people still live.