The Pamir Highway – Entering Kyrgyzstan
The Last Leg of the Journey
Ten days following the M41, or The Pamir Highway, and finally we entered Kyrgyzstan for the last leg of the journey to Osh. The Pamir Highway is an incredible journey and the scenery is spectacular every step of the way. The roads can be rough which even in a good quality 4WD vehicle makes the average day feel very long. The high altitude approaching Kyrgyzstan (Ak-Baital Pass at 4655m) can be a challenge, but there are ways to help reduce altitude sickness.
Life in most of the places we stayed at is simple, and occasionally quite harsh. Throughout, we received generous hospitality and were genuinely made to feel welcome. For most of the journey, we were fortunate to have a driver who was very much our travel companion. Unfortunately, we had to say goodbye to him before we left Tajikistan, and a gruff and miserable man took over to take us into Kyrgyzstan. I had found a peaceful place to stay in Osh, the second city in Kyrgyzstan, and was grateful to be able to sleep and recover for a couple of days.
Osh
The outskirts of Osh are virtually on the border of Uzbekistan. Other than being an access point for the Pamir Highway, Osh is also a good jumping off point to explore the lush Fergana Valley. Osh is Kyrgyzstan’s oldest city and an important trading point. The sprawling Jayma Bazaar is one of Central Asia’s largest markets. It is written into the history of the routes of The Silk Road and is believed to have been in operation along the banks of the Ak-Buura River for 2000 years. It is very much a market for the people of the region, in parts derelict and shabby, but also lively and colourful.
