The Pamir Highway – Kalai Khum to Rushan
The second day on The Pamir Highway from Kalai Khum to Rushan: Leaving Kalai Khum, we arrived at the vibrant weekly market at Ruzvat. Six bridges connect Tajikistan with Afghanistan. These are points where weekly friendship markets run on one or other side of the bridges. In 2019, the markets were alive and well, and a much appreciated opportunity for the Badakhshan Tajik communities between the two countries to meet, trade and exchange news.
Following the Taliban’s return to power in 2021 and unrest in Afghanistan’s Badakhshan region as well as COVID, the markets were closed down. Four of the markets were reopened in September 2023 (Afghan Voice Agency).
The journey from Ruzvat to Rushan was every bit as stunning and impressive as it had been the previous day on The Pamir Highway:
Dusty, road weary, and awestruck at the day’s journey, Rushan made a peaceful and happy base for the night. It was also the hometown of our cheery and kindly driver. Our hosts and their neighbours greeted us warmly, and we were made to feel like we belonged there.
